A Buyer’s Guide on Electric Fences

Whether you farm as a business or as your lifestyle, a well-designed electric fence keeps livestock safely contained and other animals away. Learn about the key factors to consider before making a purchase.

Test the voltage of your fence using a pair of properly-insulated pliers and a length of ordinary copper wire. Also, determine the type of wire you need (gauge number) and a suitable charger.

Installing the Posts

When all the posts are in place, you can begin running the wire. Begin with the post furthest from the energizer and work your way back, attaching the wire to each post with insulators. Make sure you are using a high-voltage insulated cable to run your fence lines and that there is no slack in the line (this allows for a longer, more effective arc).

When you’re finished, be sure to check the voltage of the lines with a voltmeter. It’s a good idea to schedule daily checks of the line, so you can spot any problems as they develop.

Once the fence is plugged in, you should hear a small clicking sound. Be careful around the fence, and always wear rubber soled shoes to avoid getting shocked. It’s also a good idea to hang electric fence warning signs so people know the line is hot. It is recommended to use a two wire ground system with this type of fence, as it will help prevent animals from getting shocked in areas where they haven’t touched a charged or grounded wire at the same time.

Stringing the Wires

The energizer converts mains or battery power into a high voltage pulse that is transmitted down the insulated fence line. On average the pulse is delivered once every second and only lasts 150 microseconds.

The pulse from an electric fence should startle but not injure. The shock will feel like a snapped rubber band. An insulator must be used at each end of the fence and in between where possible.

For optimum function you should run an earth return system (see our earthing guide). Insufficient grounding is the number one reason for fence failure.

You should also use a voltmeter to test each line of the fence before you plug in the charger and turn it on. This will show you whether or not the current is flowing through the fence and if there are any breaks or poor connections. Check each day that the current is flowing as it will bleed away quickly in wet or frozen conditions.

Installing the Energizer

The Energiser (also called the charger, fencer or zapper) is the heart of your electric fence system. It is important to choose an energizer that is low impedance and certified safe by UL or CSA.

The earth system of the energizer should be kept at least 10 m away from buildings, buried water pipes, and radios that may act as a broadcast aerial. Use only top quality Gallagher insulators. Cracked or poor insulators allow current to leak through the ground and cause interference.

To check for this, disconnect the earth and fence leads from the energiser terminals. Have someone at the offending radio count clicks. If there are no clicks then the problem is probably with the mains power supply connections.

Run a high voltage cable from the energiser earth terminal to the grounding rod and use a clamp to secure it. Refer to the energiser owner’s manual for detailed instructions on connecting the grounding rod.

Grounding

A grounding system is critical to the success of your electric fence malaysia. In 9 out of 10 cases, problems with electrical fences can be traced back to improper grounding.

A properly working electric fence is a closed circuit, with current running from the positive fence wire through the animal and the negative grounding terminal to complete the circuit. The animal experiences a shock when it touches both the negative grounding terminal and the positive fence wire, much like touching a hot wire with bare hands.

A voltmeter can be used to check the voltage of the grounding system. If your soil is dry or sandy, it is a good idea to install multiple ground rods at least 330′ from the energizer and connect them to the voltmeter. Each ground rod should be buried at least 12″ and be made of galvanized steel or copper. Make sure that you are not crossing over any overhead power lines or communication lines with these grounding rods.